Hotels in Rome: restaurant in rome checchino 1887, hotel panama garden

Literally carved out of a hill of ancient shards of amphorae, Checchino remains the perfect example of a classic, family-run Roman restaurant. Here, you can find the great traditional dishes of Rome prepared with care and presented without fanfare or decoration. Although these are a far cry from elegant, the atmosphere is another story, being more traditional-upscale, with wooden tables and chairs swathed in creamy linens, reserved service, and one of the best wine cellars in the region. Though the slaughterhouses of this quarter, Testaccio, are long gone, an echo of their past existence lives on in the restaurant's soul food. Butchers long ago had to make do with what remained after they'd sold the better parts of meat to paying customers, so a cuisine based on this quinto quarto (fifth quarter) -- mostly offal and other less-traditionally appealing cuts -- was born. Trippa (tripe), testina (head cheese), pajata (intestine with the mother's milk still inside), zampa (trotter), and coratella (sweetbreads and heart of beef) are all still on the menu for die-hard Roman purists. For the less adventuresome, house specialties include coda alla vaccinara (stewed oxtail), a popular Roman dish, and abbacchio alla cacciatora (braised milk-fed lamb) with seasonal vegetables. Head here for a taste of old Rome, but note that Checchino is really beginning to show its age. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sunday, Monday, and Aug.